The Appalachian Trail: More Than A Walk In The Woods

"I went to the woods because I wished to live deliberately, to front only the essential facts of life, and see if I could not learn what it had to teach, and not, when I came to die, discover that I had not lived." — Henry David Thoreau

The above quote is scribbled into the dirty weather beaten pages of Elias (Addison) Erwin's Appalachian Trail Data Book. It served as a daily journal and record of weather, mileage, meetings and events he confronted along his thru-hike of the Appalachian Trail(AT) last year. Designed, constructed, and marked in the 1920s and 1930s, by volunteer hiking clubs, this public footpath runs through the scenic, wooded, pastoral, wild, and culturally vibrant lands of the Appalachian Mountains, stretching from Maine to Georgia. It is visited and hiked by thousands each year, although only a very select few have the privilege of becoming an actual thru-hiker.

Crazy or Just a Dreamer

Addison always held a passionate dream of walking the entire 2,167 miles that runs from Maine's Mount Katahdin to Georgia's Springer Mountain and vice versa. With no summer plans after leaving a job performing salt marsh restoration in Massachusetts, the time couldn't be more perfect for him to live out his dream- and set foot on the AT. This would be the exclamation point on all the other outdoor pursuits he already accomplished in his twenty-six years. What started out as a lavish dream to walk half of the AT from Springer Mountain to Harpers Ferry, West Virginia, evolved into a courageous and mind boggling walk from beginning to end. It also enabled Addison to go from becoming a "dreamer" to a "ten percenter" - a term used to define the percentage of dreamers that begin and actually walk the entire 2,167 miles.

Addison did his homework by reading guidebooks on hiking, camping and survival amongst the wilderness of the AT, but it all seemed rather redundant to a Resource Conservation major in college, who was already quite experienced in outdoor excursions; including hiking and camping. He made all the other necessary preparations for his hike that included purchasing and assembling light weight gear, through the easily forgettable duties of writing prewritten checks for all the bills that would have to paid while he was gone.

One obvious thing to keep in mind for any AT hiker, is that every item you'll need, is going to be strapped to your back… so pack light. In this case, Addison cut his toothpaste in half, because he was no dummy to the rule that every ounce counts. He also learned from another thru-hiker that anything you don't use two days in a row, get rid of. So, it was good bye to the nail clippers, mirrors, walkman, batteries, and even a change of clothes. The clothes that he had on, were the only clothes he had. If they get sweaty, he would hang them, and let the sun dry the fabric out. Hiking shirtless in the midst of poisonous plants, mosquitos and the sweltering sun was not uncommon in his travels.

Every hiker should have their bible and there are two versions of the "Appalachian Trail Bible." The Thru-Hikers' Companion, a Rand McNally type, narrow book with loads of data from birds to road intersections, to all you can eat buffets, cheap motels, hostels and almost anything else imaginable along the path. Addison opted for the smaller compact bible that fit in his pocket and never left his side- the Appalachian Trail Data Book. Every mile with a feature is broken down and it explains where the water, lean-tos, (3 sided structure for overnights) lakes, roads, campsites, grocery stops, post offices and anything else you need to keep moving from one mile to the next. Addison's data book clearly displays the wear and tear of constantly being taken in and out of his pocket, and serves as a battle scar and trophy. Every on of the 76 pages is a typographical portrait of anywhere between one and three days on the trail. As hikers would get going, they'd have what they call "page parties," celebrating the turning of a page; as each flip would make you that much closer to your final destination.

Blistering Start

It was during the early evening hours of May 27th that Addison's mother dropped him off at Amicola State Park in Georgia in the midst of a typical early summer thunder and lightning storm; not the most welcoming way to greet the wilderness. From this point, it was eight long miles to the actual start of the Appalachian Trail at Springer Mountain. Addison was just thrilled to be living out his dream, and carved out five miles before it got too dark too see and then decided to call it a night. He awoke the next morning and walked the remaining three miles to the actual trailhead to find the simple small brass sign that signified the beginning of the Appalachian Trail. It was here that he took a couple photographs, stared at the sign, collected his thoughts, thought about it for a little bit longer, and then continued walking.

The first day on the trail, Addison was pumped and had all the energy in the world. Like a tiger let out a cage, he covered an impressive eighteen miles in his first day. But that energy would soon burn into physical problems that he simply couldn't prepare for. An injured knee in Georgia held him up for a few days, which he thought he blew out, but he later found out to be a model injury for new long-distance hikers. The conditioning process to acclimate your body to the trail is one of severe aches, gruesome pains and stinging blisters. Blisters that Addison described as "world class championship winning blisters." Blisters that were so bad that they'd fiercely bleed, burn and itch while walking and by the end of each day, all you can do is lie down and hold you feet up to let the blood flow. There is no way to prepare for blisters, as it's almost impossible to calculate the right balance of sock fabric, perspiration and moisture within your shoes, along with considering the amount of miles you cover, and whether you are hiking up hill or down. There are certain tricks to blister prevention and protection like duct tape, antibiotic ointment Neosporin, and even crazy glue within its not toxic forms that create a hard shell and protect your skin. Even with the help of poles, which assisted in maintaining his balance and steps, Addison could not help prevent the bodily damage that would result from spending up to ten or twelve hours a day continually moving on his own two feet.

We're All In It Together

Addison immediately began to identify himself within the Appalachian Trail Community. The first right of initiation was coming up with a trail name, a name in which people within the framework of the trail, refer to you. Knowing that he wanted to chose a name that was significant to him, in order to represent his friends and family back home, "Addison" was chosen; named after the county he hails from in Vermont. It would also serve as an answer to the question that had already been asked one too many times by his fellow hikers- "where are you from?"

The community within the trail is one in one of a united family. "You're all in it together, you're all heading in the same direction, you're all walking in the same path. There's different ages, professions, and walks of life. I rubbed elbows with a bunch of doctors and rubbed elbows with a bunch of homeless people," explains Addison about the common bond between hikers scattered along the AT.

On the first day of his hike, he met Blue Bird, a woman who was hiking the trail by herself. They hiked together throughout large portions of the southern half of the trail into Virginia. At times Addison, even tried to lose her, but she was a trooper and managed to always keep up. Although they mainly kept to themselves during the day, it was in the late afternoon and evening that made having company worthwhile. Just having someone to set-up camp with and talk to beneath the stars, within the forests and unpopulated areas of the trail, made the uncomfortable lodging situation a bit easier. Although it was tempting to fall for one another within the cozy confines of the trail, Addison and Blue Bird resisted any temptations and stayed true to their focused intentions of re-discovering themselves, instead of new love interests.

Addison spent a majority of his time with other random hikers he had met along his travels and even had some friends meet up with him at selected spots, which helped break up the day to day monotony. The personalities and charaters he met all have a unique story to tell. For example, there is a hiker named "Seiko" who has logged the most miles ever on the AT, around 30,000. He's been known to change his name because he's a legend and people will stake him out just because they want to hike with him. A human data book, he knows where every feature and mile on the trail by memory. Addison also stumbled across "Heavy Thunder," who after twenty long years of walking sections of the trail was finally completing every inch.

Hotel Appalachian Trail

Addison used a simple tent that was a bivy sack, the type of tent that was shaped like a coffin and won't even allow you to sit up and read. It contained a waterproof sheet over his back and at times could be tight and claustrophobic. Due to its ease to set up and disassemble, along with its lightweight frame, this unglamorous tent served its purpose.

Along, the trail Addison often stayed at what are called lean-tos, a three-sided structure that served as overnight housing for hikers. A majority of the lean-tos were dirty and germ friendly, however there were some lean-tos along the trail that were well maintained by stewards. Some of these even had a radio and electricity, along with caretakers that would sell Klondike Bars and Coca- Cola, as "those were the ones you'd want to hit," explains Addison. However, some of the lean-tos in Maine were just an old decking with sticks laid across to sleep upon, making a bivy sack look and feel like the Marriott.

On his shoulders resided close to 30 pounds of weight, that included one pot and pan, a couple water bottles, a hydration hose, and a self-built soda can stove that weighed close to an ounce. Water was filtered through a pump he carried when drinking in the southern half of the trail and upon reaching the north, Addison was less discriminate and used a simple pinch of bleach to purify his drinking water. Although it tasted a bit funky, he preferred it over iodine. The food he consumed consisted mainly of dehydrated food packets that were packed with essential vitamins . Addison did have his cravings for more "substantial" foods and drinks like pizza and Orangina, but that all came with the territory.

It Keeps You Hiking

One must imagine that after spending this much time walking in the wilderness, you'll run out of things to talk about and your thoughts will turn deranged. Thinking whether this type of hiking is absolutely painful and pointless, making the game of walking that much more mental than physical. Addison's motivation was his family, friends and accomplishing a feat he told people he was going to complete.

If you don't take it one day at a time, you'll never finish, but mail drops served as a form of goal and destination for hikers to continue onward. These drops are specific locations off the trail in which you can pick up supplies that are sent via mail by friends and family for pick-up, and served as motivation and a re-connection with the outside world. For those people without the good fortune of having loved ones to send you supplies, it's not uncommon to go off the trail and into the nearest town that might intersect with a part of the AT. Re-supplying was the main objective of leaving the beaten path. Purchasing gas for your stoves, insoles for your shoes, replacing shoes, film, batteries, and visiting all you can eat buffets, are some of the more civilized highlights. Although a majority of the people walk off the trail to get a hearty meal or stay in a hotel for a night, there are a number of "hardcore' thru-hikers, who refuse to mingle within civilization. Instead, they make do in the wilderness and survive off what the exact trail itself has to offer.

Although Addison at times felt tempted and guilty about leaving the trail, he would look at his sunken face in a rare moment of reflection and say to himself, "I got to eat." He started the trail at 195 pounds and at his lightest got all the way down to 150 pounds. Groups of people he had met along the way would go to all you can eat buffets and it would be hard for him to say no.

Going into town served as an adventure in itself, as people would immediately see a bearded man with a large backpack and hiking boots and know what's going on — he definitely wasn't there for the young Republican's meeting. While, most residents were receptive and would pass a glance in admiration, some other people would simply look the other way and rather not smell you. But entering into town would get you caught in a whirlwind, and one night would turn into two nights. Towns like Damascus, Virginia — which marked the quarter way point of the trail- and Gatlinburg, TN served as hiker friendly towns that offered meal discounts, lodging and special amenities for hikers that made returning to the woods rather uninviting.

Families that live in trail towns provide services to hikers by offering beds, meals and laundry services, as many do this as their sole source of income. It was in Tennessee that he met Ms. Janet, who runs a hostel out of her house. Addison talks about her, as if he was reading a radio ad, and mentions how she provides a clean bed, hot meal, refreshing shower, laundry service and even ferries you all over town in her car for just fifteen dollars.

Making Progress

There is a statistic that says - half of all those dreamers that start the Appalachian Trail will stop at Neels Gap, right before North Carolina, where the first mail drop is. Half of those dreamers that continue on and will drop out around Damascus, while while only eight to ten percent actually finish the entire trail. Like cross-country skiing, Addison was in a zone, focused on the trail and breathing properly while clicking with the proper motions. Everyday you are confronted with new problems to overcome, maybe the bugs are bad, maybe you don't have water or maybe it's just too damn hot, but he was able to keep one foot in front of the other and maintain his strength. A motto he often said to himself was, "get r' done."

Through the Smoky Mountains of Tennessee to the open meadows and hills of Virginia, the commanding view of McAfee Knob and up into Shenandoah National Park in Virginia, Addison was cranking out some serious miles- better than he ever expected. It was on the soft, fertile well-manicured grounds of Shenandoah National Park that Addison was able to cruise and cover around thirty miles a day. Typically, he'd average twenty minute miles, but it all depended on the conditions of the trail itself. Sometimes you'd be walking on sharp rocks and calculating every step, as each stride might feel like a knife was ripping through your shoes. While cruising through Shenandoah he was able to indulge in the treat of having breakfast, lunch and dinner all in the same day in sections along the trail, something previously unheard of in the prior remoteness of the AT.

The Appalachian Trail Conference, located in Harpers Ferry, West Virigina, serves as the un-official midway point of the trail and is the spot where Addison originally planned on hiking to. But once he got there, he realized just how far he had come in such little time and decided to continue hiking and keep progressing north one day at a time. By skipping the cheap thrill and physically exhausting toll of the "Four State Challenge," which involved setting foot in Virginia, West Virginia, Maryland, and Pennsylvania all in one day, Addison was able to preserve his energy, as rough times lay ahead.

Should I Stay or Should I Go

It was around the official midway point in Pennsylvania, that Addison had his first thoughts of quitting when he realized, "I couldn't believe that all the things I had gone through, I had to do again."

He was in pretty rough shape at this point, while fighting severe heat and was enduring severe blisters, his shins were bruised, and poison ivy had spread across his entire body. Pennsylvania was also offering tough terrain with its jagged rocks that made for short watchful steps rather than cruising strides. His friend Adam, from Vermont had come to down to hike a section of the trail in Pennsylvania and didn't make the situation any better, by boasting of summer parties and barbecues that would be taking place over Labor Day weekend. At the same time, Adam could provide a ride back to Vermont, which would make things easy; just hop in the car and go and he'd be sleeping in his own bed within hours.

Physically and mentally shot, he found a home stay in Duncannon, Pennsylvania that offered extended services. The caretakers's wife was a dermatologist and had special steroid cream to clear up his now widespread poison ivy. But it was here that the caretaker offered Addison the most important words of encouragement he so badly needed at this time of distress, as he informed him, "it all gets better from here." With those words of advice, Addison reconsidered how much time and energy that he had already committed, and decided to keep on hiking.

Familiar Territory

It was around the New York metropolitan area that the days and miles just seemed to fly by as features started to pass quicker and big sites began to approach, but not only big sites, they were familiar sites. It was also around here that he met up with two other hikers: Geo and Voodoo Child. They would both be on and off hiking partners for a majority of the remainder of the AT. Walking through High Point State Park and atop Bear Mountain in New York Addison was even able to view the Manhattan skyline. It was at this point that it really began to sink in how far he had really come from the rural countryside of Georgia where he began his trip almost three months ago.

He was still continuing on a steady pace of "get r' done," by dong ten miles in the morning and twenty miles by two in the afternoon, and then he'd have the rest of the day to "chill." Connecticut and Massachusetts flew by and took nine days total to walk through its 141 miles. It was in Kent, Connecticut that he found out about a package store that offers free beer to all thru-hikers; a nice way to end that particular day of his expedition.

Home Stretch

Addison's original plan was if he ever made it all the way to Vermont, he'd walk onto the state's Long Trail, get off at the Lincoln Gap and walk right into his own home in Bristol, Vermont. He decided against that plan, and instead finish what he started. While in his home state, he decided he was in shape for a couple "zero days," a term used to signify no mileage for a day on the trail. He got off in Manchester, Vermont and took a bus home to Bristol to recharge his battery and see his family and friends, whom he hadn't seen in over three months. Shaving, bathing, eating and sleeping well was exactly boost he need to conquer the remaining quarter of the AT.

Heading back on the trail with his father and two sisters, Addison paved his way through his home turf of the Green Mountains of Vermont. His father and sisters left him after twenty eight miles, but Geo and Voodoo Child, who were now miles ahead of him, were able to meet back up with Addison at a popular meeting spot in Hanover, New Hampshire. Maintaining their strenght through the tall and rugged White Mountains of New Hampshire, the three of them, persevered through the Presidential Range of Mt. Lafeyette, Garfield, Madison, and Washington that provided steep inclines and declines that physically took a toll on your lower extremities and made your knees tremble with each step. Shortly thereafter, they were in Maine, the final state and home of Mount Katahdin, the pinnacle of this overwhelming and mind boggling adventure.

It was now October and the days were getting shorter, the nights becoming cooler and the leaves were starting to change color. While walking through Maine, he began to see moose, badgers, muskrat, and many river crossings which contained points in which you'd actually have to take you shoes off to cross. Days later, they entered the legendary 100-Mile Wilderness. Before walking into this area, the hiker is greeted with a sign reminding you to not underestimate the difficulty of this section, as it contains the largest wilderness section of the entire AT. There is no accessibility to supplies or help for 100 miles and you must be fully equipped with a minimum of ten days supplies. Before entering, Addison, Voodoo and Geo ate and slept well at Shaw's - a generous hostel in Monson, Maine - which became the final sight, sound and smell of civilization before entering the isolated frontier.

While walking through the wilderness, Addison eventually spotted Mt. Katahdin up ahead with his own two eyes. Addison became lost in a wave of bittersweet emotion. His whole life revolved around AT for the past four months, and now it was all about to come to a fitting conclusion. Although, he walked further than he ever imagined the thought of living outside the trail almost seemed foreign. Like graduating from college, the emotions tugged at him, not knowing whether to be joyous or sad, however he knew deep down that he had to keep moving forward.

The weather was dismal on the morning of October 7th at the ranger station of Mt. Katahdin with only 5.2 miles remaining on the AT. The three decided to hold off a day to reach the summit of the 5,268 foot Katahdin, as the forecast for the following day was more pleasant and nobody wants to finish the Appalachian Trail in a smog of cold rain and snow. That night Addison, Geo, and Voodoo couldn't sleep and tossed and turned like kids on Christmas Eve. With hopes of making it to the top to watch the sunrise, the three of them made it up a bit later than expected in the middle of the morning. Addison had done it. He had summitted Mount Katahdin and walked the whole entire 2,167 mile Appalachian Trail! He cried when he made his first state crossing and now he just held a proud smile, with an accomplishment that was leaps and bounds beyond what he ever imagined.

"I couldn't imagine starting at Katahdin, which was such a beautiful pinnacle and hiking and petering down to Georgia. Springer is not spectacular, it's not grand and it's certainly not a climatic finish like Mount Katahdin," Addison reflects.

Was It Worth It

Elias Erwin recounts his months on the AT as the most memorable of his twenty six-years. It allowed him to appreciate the simple things in life and to carry out and live out a vision that he had always seen of himself. A way to live life to its simple bare roots; just man and his necessities, while separating oneself from the modern conveniences and capital stimulation our world is so fully absorbed in. His data book is filled with names and addresses that symbolize more than a passing smile and conversation. These fellow hikers represent a growing community with a united vision and hunger for something more meaningful and fulfilling to their every day lives, and in the words of Thoreau, up to that point to "discover that I had not lived."