Fresh Air

It’s that time of year again when we can safely say that winter is over. Time to wipe the spider webs from our favorite two-wheeled cruiser and experience all the new life Mother Nature has sprung throughout your landscape.

Traveling by bicycle is one of the most liberating and sensual methods of modern day transportation, however not taking the time to ensure your bicycle is properly maintained can lead to a considerable amount of aggravation. Following are some basic tune-up tips to help you make sure your ride is safe and functional.

There are four major categories that are critical to the proper functioning of a bicycle. These include wheels, brakes, headsets, and the drive train.

Wheels

[list=1][li]Check the tread and sidewall of the tires for wear. If there is any cracking or visible punctures, the tires should be replaced. An investment of $30/pr-$50/pr should get you a decent set of tires.[/li][li]Check the hub to see that it spins freely and is not loose. If the hub does not spin freely or if there is any side-to-side play in the wheel the hub should be overhauled. Overhauling your hubs once a year will prolong the life of your wheels. A hub overhaul service will cost around $10-$20 per hub.[/li][li]Check the wheels for proper dish and true. As you spin the wheel see that it is centered in the frame and that there is no wobble. If there is wobble you should put your wheels on a true stand. If this hasn’t ever been done before lube the spoke nipples as they most likely will be locked up and difficult to adjust without stripping them out. An effective method of lubing the spokes is by putting a single drop of tri-flow or like lube where the base of the each nipple meets the rim. Do not put any petroleum based lube in the threaded part of the nipple as it may cause the spokes to loosen. Tightening a spoke will pull rim towards the side of the hub that the spoke is routed from. Loosening a spoke will push the rim away from the side of the hub the spoke is routed. This process is continued until the wobble is straightened. It’s always the safest bet to have a professional shop align your wheels for you. A shop should charge no more than $25 for a wheel truing service.[/li][/list]

Brakes

[list=1][li]Check pads for wear. There are normally grooves or wear marks to show when your pads should be changed. New pads can be purchased for $5-$10/pr.[/li][li]Check pads for proper alignment to the rim. Make sure the pads hit in the center of the rim. If they are too low they will eventually start to stick below your rim and if they are too high they may rub against the tire causing your tire to tear. If your brakes make a high pitched squeal it means that your pads need to be toed in. This means the front of the brake pad should hit the rim just before the rear of the pad.[/li][li]Center brake so that they both sides hit the rim at the same time. If they do not there are usually centering screws on the caliper. If you turn the screws inward the caliper will move outward. Turn screw outward and the caliper will move inward. These screws also put tension on the spring that is responsible for making your brake lever pop back out after it is depressed. If the brake lever does not pop back it means you have to tighten the centering screws on each caliper.[/li][li]Check to see that brakes are operating smoothly when squeezing. If not lube the length of cable that runs through the housing with tri-flow or like lube.[/li][li]Most importantly check housing for cracks or wear and all cables for fraying. If there are any signs of this replace the damaged parts. Cables and housing are very inexpensive. If you install be sure to route housing and cables properly by memorizing the way they came off.[/li][/list]

Drive Train

[list=1][li]The drive train is one of the most complex pieces of bicycle maintenance. There are a number of problem shooting techniques. Only hours of hands on experience will enable someone to develop skill in derailleur adjustments. It is always best to seek professional help if you have any problems with gears grinding, skipping, bouncing, bending, busting, etc. Having your drive train serviced regularly will add a tremendous amount of life to it.[/li][li]Check to make sure the derailleur shifts into each gear both in the front and rear with no hesitation and no over or under shifting. A test ride is the most accurate method to test shifting. Some problems are hidden when using a stand to test, as the amount of pressure from a rider is not pushing the pedals around.[/li][li]If you ride a lot each season it is a good idea to replace your chain after about 500 miles of riding. This figure is dependant upon the quality of your chain and the shifting techniques you use. Proper shifting will preserve your chain from stretching. There is a chain wear checking tool on the market for about $10. Changing your chain regularly will keep the teeth on your chain rings in the front and the cassette cogs in the rear from wearing.[/li][li]Another rule of thumb is to lube your chain after every couple of rides. This will keep your chain links moving freely and keep the chain clean. To lube chain, generously apply lube so that it really soaks into the links. Then wipe off the excess with a clean dry rag. There are a number of different lubes for different riding conditions. If you were riding in the dessert you would need a dry lube that will not attract dirt and cleans off easily. Dry lube comes off all too easy thus it is not ideal for wet conditions. For riding along the sea or mountain biking through the mud and guts of Vermont’s Green Mountains, a wet lube for extreme riding conditions will keep your chain from rusting.[/li][li]Clean off all the dirt from the two cogwheels of your rear derailleur, your cassette, and your chain rings often. Especially after dirty wet rides. Keeping your drive train free of dirt also greatly reduces chain and gear teeth wear.[/li][li]Check all shifting cables and housing for wear or fraying and lube cables where they slide through the housing. Lack of lubrication can lead to hesitation in shifting.[/li][/list]

Headset

[list=1][li]Do not ride until your headset is properly adjusted. If the headset is too loose you can feel it when you put the front brakes on and rock the bike back and forth. Loose headsets can cause the threads on the top of your fork to strip out. If the headset is too tight the handlebar will not swing freely from side to side. Pick the bike up and swing the handlebars to test. Tight headsets can cause the ball bearings to put dents in the surfaces they roll around. When this happens it is very difficult to get the correct headset adjustment.[/li][/list]

Bicycle mechanics is a gateway to a greater understanding of common mechanical law. Learning the ropes will teach you about more than just bikes. It will also save you a pretty penny at that great local bike shop. I hope this information has been helpful in your mechanical learning’s. These are the more important pieces of bike maintenance that should be done by y’all to get the most performance from yo bicycle. Ride fast and take chances, keep the greasy side down and the rubber to the road.